Thursday, February 14, 2013


Is a quilt designed by me. The instructions are here for you to use. 
They may not be sold or distributed without my permission.
The introductory blog for this quilt is found here:
If you have decided to make your quilt with gradations in color you must sort your scraps into bags by color. You'll need a light bag and a dark bag in each color.  This quilt is composed of two blocks.  I will be referring to the "Sweet Sixteen Block" as the "A" block.  The "Kissing Block" will be called the "B" block.
The "A" block is composed of four, 4 patches.  They are constructed using the technique which ends with a miniature 4 patch on the wrong side of the 4 patch.
Stitch together 2 squares (one light and one dark).  You can make the 8 pairs needed at the same time.  Do not use white or white background fabrics for your lights.  They will make your "A" block melt into the "B" block. When you press this unit, iron it towards the dark fabric.  Do this every time, it affects the out come of the 4 patch and eventually the 16 patch.

Take two units and piece together.  You now have your 4 patches ready to join.  It is important to place the dark square entering first when putting the unit under the presser foot. 
 You must do this on every pair.  (When finished and you're holding the stitched pairs
in your hand, unopened, the dark square should be on the top and the seam on the right.)   
When you open the 4 patch, give a little tug where the seams cross and a couple of stitches will pop.  You will be able to open out your seam as shown and press.
 This is how your block should look on the back.
You say, what difference does this make.  The biggest difference is less bulk on the back of the block.

When there are so many seams in a quilt it will make a difference when you quilt each of those nestings, they will be bulky if done the conventional way.  Your machine will stumble over them. (If you hand quilt they will be a bear to quilt through). You're using 2 inch squares, which means a lot of seams.
When you join your four patches to make Block "A" all the seams will nest perfectly. 
 Nest two of your four patches to form a rectangle.
Then nest two rectangles together. Voila your Block "A" is complete.  BTW, each time you seam two units together you can pop the seams and open them just like you did in the basic unit.
 Making for a flatter "A" block
I complete lots of "A" blocks before I decide the color placement order.  After I construct enough blocks to make a quilt the size I want, I pin them on my design wall leaving a space the same size vacant between each block.  I now have a checkerboard of blocks on the wall.  Time to make the "Kissing blocks".  There is no set formula on how many to make and what colors to use. It is your placement of the "A" blocks which will make the decision.

This block is just as simple as the "A" Block.  There is a challenge though.  It is  in deciding what colors to  use for the corners of the block.  If you haven't chosen a background color now is the time.  I used white because that is what was sitting on the sewing table.  It was left over from another project. 

This quilt can be made very girlie by using very soft pastel colored background and darker pastels in florals for your "A" block fabrics.  It would be a good pattern to use for holiday fabrics.  I'm sure you can think of lots of colorways to execute the pattern (wouldn't a black background using yellows through oranges and reds be on fire).

This block is made of three simple units.
A center strip and two side units.
1:  The center strip is 3 1/2 inches wide X 6 1/2 inches long.  When I am cutting only WOF strips  3 1/2 inches wide.  (This is also the width needed for the side units).  I cut 6 1/2" units from the WOF strip.
2.:  I make a chart on graph paper to keep track of the colors and their placement on the corners.  If I don't have enough 2 inch scraps  in the colors I need I raid the stash for larger scraps and start cutting them up.
3:  Take a 3 1/2" WOF strip and cut it in to 2 inch wide units.
4:  Use a unit from Step 3 and add a 2 inch square to each end (referring to the chart for color  placement).  When you press the seams press towards the dark fabric.  If you use white for a background this is very important because you will have shadow bleed through in your finished quilt, spoiling the look.
5:  Take your finished side units and sew them to either side of the 6 1/2" piece of fabric in Step 1.  Press to the dark, even though this will cause a bump where there are seams.  Voila a finished "B" Block.
I used a different color for the "A" block and the "B" block
because I wanted the kissing block to be visible.  In other words caught in the act.
Normally the side next to the blue block would be blue, and the block joining the red side red. 
I have another of these quilts started but this one is "Thoughtless".  I am doing scraps and only pulling out of a light mixed bag and a dark mixed bag and if I don't like it then I will still stitch it because it would waste time throwing it back in and fishing out another. 
Another quilt which made the most of wasted time.
I hope I've inspired you to save small scraps, recycling them into another
Glorious Creation.
 New Article on my blog: 
A mystery quilt designed with the novice in mind
Other blog sites by me:
Where I have stories of my cats and other pets
a blog about my courtship with my husband,
and a blog about my most embarrassing moment.
A "Soap box" blog where I do air my opinions.
blogs about the wildflowers on our farm
Organic methods we use, some cooking and some poetry,
blogs about Seed sprouting, insects, and garden pictures
Blog about an endangered beneficial beetle
New Blog:
All recipes, pictures, and writings are my own.
I give credit for items which belong to other people in my blogs .
Please do not copy without permission

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